Isles Of Scilly
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The Isles of Scilly (; kw, Syllan, ', or ) is an
archipelago An archipelago ( ), sometimes called an island group or island chain, is a chain, cluster, or collection of islands, or sometimes a sea containing a small number of scattered islands. Examples of archipelagos include: the Indonesian Arc ...
off the southwestern tip of
Cornwall Cornwall (; kw, Kernow ) is a historic county and ceremonial county in South West England. It is recognised as one of the Celtic nations, and is the homeland of the Cornish people. Cornwall is bordered to the north and west by the Atlantic ...
,
England England is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. It shares land borders with Wales to its west and Scotland to its north. The Irish Sea lies northwest and the Celtic Sea to the southwest. It is separated from continental Europe b ...
. One of the islands, St Agnes, is the most southerly point in
Britain Britain most often refers to: * The United Kingdom, a sovereign state in Europe comprising the island of Great Britain, the north-eastern part of the island of Ireland and many smaller islands * Great Britain, the largest island in the United King ...
, being over further south than the most southerly point of the
British mainland Great Britain is an island in the North Atlantic Ocean off the northwest coast of continental Europe. With an area of , it is the largest of the British Isles, the largest European island and the ninth-largest island in the world. It is ...
at Lizard Point. The total population of the islands at the 2011 United Kingdom census was 2,203. Scilly forms part of the ceremonial county of
Cornwall Cornwall (; kw, Kernow ) is a historic county and ceremonial county in South West England. It is recognised as one of the Celtic nations, and is the homeland of the Cornish people. Cornwall is bordered to the north and west by the Atlantic ...
, and some services are combined with those of Cornwall. However, since 1890, the islands have had a separate local authority. Since the passing of the Isles of Scilly Order 1930, this authority has had the status of a
county council A county council is the elected administrative body governing an area known as a county. This term has slightly different meanings in different countries. Ireland The county councils created under British rule in 1899 continue to exist in Irel ...
and today is known as the Council of the Isles of Scilly. The adjective "Scillonian" is sometimes used for people or things related to the archipelago. The Duchy of Cornwall owns most of the freehold land on the islands. Tourism is a major part of the local economy, along with agriculture—particularly the production of
cut flowers Cut flowers are flowers or flower buds (often with some stem and leaf) that have been cut from the plant bearing it. It is usually removed from the plant for decorative use. Typical uses are in vase displays, wreaths and garlands. Many garde ...
.


Etymology

Historically, the Isles of Scilly were known in
Latin Latin (, or , ) is a classical language belonging to the Italic branch of the Indo-European languages. Latin was originally a dialect spoken in the lower Tiber area (then known as Latium) around present-day Rome, but through the power of the ...
as ''Insulae Sillinae'', ''Silina'' or ''Siluruni'', corresponding to Greek forms Σίλυρες and Σύρινες, possibly derived from native Celtic roots. In the late middle ages they were known to European navigators as ''Sorlingas'' (Spanish, Portuguese) or ''Sorlingues'' (French). Some authors claim that the Latin ''Sillinae'' is derived or related to ''solis insulae'', “the Isles of the Sun”.


History


Early history

The islands may correspond to the
Cassiterides The Cassiterides ( el, Κασσιτερίδες, meaning "Tin Islands", from κασσίτερος, ''kassíteros'' "tin") are an ancient geographical name used to refer to a group of islands whose precise location is unknown, but which was believ ...
('Tin Isles') believed by some to have been visited by the
Phoenicia Phoenicia () was an ancient thalassocratic civilization originating in the Levant region of the eastern Mediterranean, primarily located in modern Lebanon. The territory of the Phoenician city-states extended and shrank throughout their histor ...
ns, and mentioned by the
Greeks The Greeks or Hellenes (; el, Έλληνες, ''Éllines'' ) are an ethnic group and nation indigenous to the Eastern Mediterranean and the Black Sea regions, namely Greece, Cyprus, Albania, Italy, Turkey, Egypt, and, to a lesser extent, oth ...
. However, there is no evidence of substantial tin mining activity on the islands. The isles were off the coast of the Brittonic Celtic kingdom of
Dumnonia Dumnonia is the Latinised name for a Brythonic kingdom that existed in Sub-Roman Britain between the late 4th and late 8th centuries CE in the more westerly parts of present-day South West England. It was centred in the area of modern Devon, ...
and later its offshoot, Kernow (
Cornwall Cornwall (; kw, Kernow ) is a historic county and ceremonial county in South West England. It is recognised as one of the Celtic nations, and is the homeland of the Cornish people. Cornwall is bordered to the north and west by the Atlantic ...
), and may have been a part of these polities until their conquest by the English in the 10th century AD. It is likely that until relatively recent times the islands were much larger and perhaps joined into one island named Ennor. Rising sea levels flooded the central plain around 400–500 AD, forming the current 55 islands and islets, if an island is defined as "land surrounded by water at high tide and supporting land vegetation". Originally written by Ernest Lyon Bowley and published in 1945 by W. P. Kennedy. The word ' is a contraction of the Old Cornish ' (',
mutated In biology, a mutation is an alteration in the nucleic acid sequence of the genome of an organism, virus, or extrachromosomal DNA. Viral genomes contain either DNA or RNA. Mutations result from errors during DNA or viral replication, mitos ...
to '), meaning 'the land' or the 'great island'. Evidence for the older large island includes: * A description written during Roman times designates Scilly "" in the
singular Singular may refer to: * Singular, the grammatical number that denotes a unit quantity, as opposed to the plural and other forms * Singular homology * SINGULAR, an open source Computer Algebra System (CAS) * Singular or sounder, a group of boar, ...
, indicating either a single island or an island much bigger than any of the others. * Remains of a prehistoric farm have been found on Nornour, which is now a small rocky
skerry A skerry is a small rocky island, or islet, usually too small for human habitation. It may simply be a rocky reef. A skerry can also be called a low sea stack. A skerry may have vegetative life such as moss and small, hardy grasses. They ar ...
far too small for farming.; (includes the description of over 250 Roman fibulae found at the site) There once was an Iron Age British community here that extended into Roman times. This community was likely formed by immigrants from Brittany, probably the Veneti who were active in the tin trade that originated in mining activity in Cornwall and Devon. * At certain low tides the sea becomes shallow enough for people to walk between some of the islands. This is possibly one of the sources for stories of drowned lands, e.g.
Lyonesse Lyonesse is a kingdom which, according to legend, consisted of a long strand of land stretching from Land's End at the southwestern tip of Cornwall, England, to what is now the Isles of Scilly in the Celtic Sea portion of the Atlantic Ocean. I ...
. * Ancient field walls are visible below the high tide line off some of the islands, such as
Samson Samson (; , '' he, Šīmšōn, label= none'', "man of the sun") was the last of the judges of the ancient Israelites mentioned in the Book of Judges (chapters 13 to 16) and one of the last leaders who "judged" Israel before the institution o ...
. * Some of the Cornish language place names also appear to reflect past shorelines, and former land areas. * The whole of
southern England Southern England, or the South of England, also known as the South, is an area of England consisting of its southernmost part, with cultural, economic and political differences from the Midlands and the North. Officially, the area includes ...
has been steadily sinking in opposition to
post-glacial rebound Post-glacial rebound (also called isostatic rebound or crustal rebound) is the rise of land masses after the removal of the huge weight of ice sheets during the last glacial period, which had caused isostatic depression. Post-glacial rebound ...
in Scotland: this has caused the
ria A ria (; gl, ría) is a coastal inlet formed by the partial submergence of an unglaciated river valley. It is a drowned river valley that remains open to the sea. Definitions Typically rias have a dendritic, treelike outline although they ca ...
s (drowned river valleys) on the southern Cornish coast, e.g.
River Fal The River Fal ( kw, Dowr Fala) flows through Cornwall, England, rising at Pentevale on Goss Moor (between St. Columb and Roche) and reaching the English Channel at Falmouth. On or near the banks of the Fal are the castles of Pendennis and ...
and the
Tamar Estuary Tamar may refer to: Arts, entertainment and media * ''Tamar'' (album), by Tamar Braxton, 2000 * ''Tamar'' (novel), by Mal Peet, 2005 * ''Tamar'' (poem), an epic poem by Robinson Jeffers People * Tamar (name), including a list of people with ...
. Offshore, midway between
Land's End Land's End ( kw, Penn an Wlas or ''Pedn an Wlas'') is a headland and tourist and holiday complex in western Cornwall, England, on the Penwith peninsula about west-south-west of Penzance at the western end of the A30 road. To the east of it is ...
and the Isles of Scilly, is the supposed location of the mythical lost land of
Lyonesse Lyonesse is a kingdom which, according to legend, consisted of a long strand of land stretching from Land's End at the southwestern tip of Cornwall, England, to what is now the Isles of Scilly in the Celtic Sea portion of the Atlantic Ocean. I ...
, referred to in
Arthurian King Arthur ( cy, Brenin Arthur, kw, Arthur Gernow, br, Roue Arzhur) is a legendary king of Britain, and a central figure in the medieval literary tradition known as the Matter of Britain. In the earliest traditions, Arthur appears as a ...
literature, of which
Tristan Tristan (Latin/ Brythonic: ''Drustanus''; cy, Trystan), also known as Tristram or Tristain and similar names, is the hero of the legend of Tristan and Iseult. In the legend, he is tasked with escorting the Irish princess Iseult to we ...
is said to have been a prince. This may be a
folk memory Folk memory, also known as folklore or myths, refers to past events that have been passed orally from generation to generation. The events described by the memories may date back hundreds, thousands, or even tens of thousands of years and often hav ...
of inundated lands, but this legend is also common among the Brythonic peoples; the legend of Ys is a parallel and cognate legend in
Brittany Brittany (; french: link=no, Bretagne ; br, Breizh, or ; Gallo: ''Bertaèyn'' ) is a peninsula, historical country and cultural area in the west of modern France, covering the western part of what was known as Armorica during the period ...
as is that of in
Wales Wales ( cy, Cymru ) is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. It is bordered by England to the east, the Irish Sea to the north and west, the Celtic Sea to the south west and the Bristol Channel to the south. It had a population in ...
. Scilly has been identified as the place of exile of two heretical 4th century bishops, Instantius and Tiberianus, who were followers of Priscillian.


Norse and Norman period

In 995,
Olaf Tryggvason Olaf Tryggvason (960s – 9 September 1000) was King of Norway from 995 to 1000. He was the son of Tryggvi Olafsson, king of Viken ( Vingulmark, and Rånrike), and, according to later sagas, the great-grandson of Harald Fairhair, first King of N ...
became King Olaf I of
Norway Norway, officially the Kingdom of Norway, is a Nordic country in Northern Europe, the mainland territory of which comprises the western and northernmost portion of the Scandinavian Peninsula. The remote Arctic island of Jan Mayen and the ...
. Born 960, Olaf had raided various European cities and fought in several wars. In 986 he met a Christian
seer In the United States, the efficiency of air conditioners is often rated by the seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER) which is defined by the Air Conditioning, Heating, and Refrigeration Institute, a trade association, in its 2008 standard AHR ...
on the Isles of Scilly. He was probably a follower of Priscillian and part of the tiny Christian community that was exiled here from Spain by
Emperor Maximus Magnus Maximus (; cy, Macsen Wledig ; died 8 August 388) was Roman emperor of the Western Roman Empire from 383 to 388. He usurped the throne from emperor Gratian in 383 through negotiation with emperor Theodosius I. He was made emperor in B ...
for
Priscillianism Priscillianism was a Christian sect developed in the Iberian Peninsula under the Roman Empire in the 4th century by Priscillian. It is derived from the Gnostic doctrines taught by Marcus, an Egyptian from Memphis. Priscillianism was later cons ...
. In Snorri Sturluson's Royal Sagas of Norway, it is stated that this seer told him:
Thou wilt become a renowned king, and do celebrated deeds. Many men wilt thou bring to faith and baptism, and both to thy own and others' good; and that thou mayst have no doubt of the truth of this answer, listen to these tokens. When thou comest to thy ships many of thy people will conspire against thee, and then a battle will follow in which many of thy men will fall, and thou wilt be wounded almost to death, and carried upon a shield to thy ship; yet after seven days thou shalt be well of thy wounds, and immediately thou shalt let thyself be baptised.
The legend continues that, as the seer foretold, Olaf was attacked by a group of
mutineers Mutiny is a revolt among a group of people (typically of a military, of a crew or of a crew of pirates) to oppose, change, or overthrow an organization to which they were previously loyal. The term is commonly used for a rebellion among memb ...
upon returning to his ships. As soon as he had recovered from his wounds, he let himself be baptised. He then stopped raiding Christian cities, and lived in England and Ireland. In 995, he used an opportunity to return to Norway. When he arrived, the
Haakon Jarl Haakon Sigurdsson ( non, Hákon Sigurðarson , no, Håkon Sigurdsson; 937–995), known as Haakon Jarl (Old Norse: ''Hákon jarl''), was the ''de facto'' ruler of Norway from about 975 to 995. Sometimes he is styled as Haakon the Powerful ( n ...
was facing a revolt. Olaf Tryggvason persuaded the rebels to accept him as their king, and Jarl Haakon was murdered by his own slave, while he was hiding from the rebels in a pig sty. With the
Norman Conquest The Norman Conquest (or the Conquest) was the 11th-century invasion and occupation of England by an army made up of thousands of Norman, Breton, Flemish, and French troops, all led by the Duke of Normandy, later styled William the Con ...
, the Isles of Scilly came more under centralised control. About 20 years later, the
Domesday survey Domesday Book () – the Middle English spelling of "Doomsday Book" – is a manuscript record of the "Great Survey" of much of England and parts of Wales completed in 1086 by order of King William I, known as William the Conqueror. The manusc ...
was conducted. The islands would have formed part of the " Exeter Domesday" circuit, which included Cornwall,
Devon Devon ( , historically known as Devonshire , ) is a ceremonial and non-metropolitan county in South West England. The most populous settlement in Devon is the city of Plymouth, followed by Devon's county town, the city of Exeter. Devo ...
, Dorset,
Somerset ( en, All The People of Somerset) , locator_map = , coordinates = , region = South West England , established_date = Ancient , established_by = , preceded_by = , origin = , lord_lieutenant_office =Lord Lieutenant of Somerset , lord_ ...
, and
Wiltshire Wiltshire (; abbreviated Wilts) is a historic and ceremonial county in South West England with an area of . It is landlocked and borders the counties of Dorset to the southwest, Somerset to the west, Hampshire to the southeast, Gloucestershire ...
. In the mid-12th century, there was reportedly a Viking attack on the Isles of Scilly, called by the Norse, recorded in the '—
Sweyn Asleifsson Sweyn Asleifsson or Sveinn Ásleifarson ( 1115 – 1171) was a twelfth-century Viking who appears in the '' Orkneyinga Saga''. Early career Sweyn was born in Caithness in the early twelfth century, to Olaf Hrolfsson and his wife Åsleik. According ...
"went south, under Ireland, and seized a barge belonging to some monks in Syllingar and plundered it." (Chap LXXIII)
...the three chiefs—Swein, Þorbjörn and Eirik—went out on a plundering expedition. They went first to the Suðreyar ebrides and all along the west to the Syllingar, where they gained a great victory in Maríuhöfn on Columba's-mass June and took much booty. Then they returned to the Orkneys.
"" literally means "Mary's Harbour/Haven". The name does not make it clear if it referred to a harbour on a larger island than today's St Mary's, or a whole island. It is generally considered that Cornwall, and possibly the Isles of Scilly, came under the dominion of the English Crown late in the reign of
Æthelstan Æthelstan or Athelstan (; ang, Æðelstān ; on, Aðalsteinn; ; – 27 October 939) was King of the Anglo-Saxons from 924 to 927 and King of the English from 927 to his death in 939. He was the son of King Edward the Elder and his fir ...
( 924–939). In early times one group of islands was in the possession of a confederacy of hermits. King Henry I (r. 1100–35) gave it to the abbey of Tavistock who established a priory on
Tresco Tresco may refer to: * Tresco, Elizabeth Bay, a historic residence in New South Wales, Australia * Tresco, Isles of Scilly, an island off Cornwall, England, United Kingdom * Tresco, Victoria, a town in Victoria, Australia * a nickname referring to ...
, which was abolished at the
Reformation The Reformation (alternatively named the Protestant Reformation or the European Reformation) was a major movement within Western Christianity in 16th-century Europe that posed a religious and political challenge to the Catholic Church and in ...
.


Later Middle Ages and early modern period

At the turn of the 14th century, the Abbot and convent of Tavistock Abbey petitioned the king,
stat ngthat they hold certain isles in the sea between Cornwall and Ireland, of which the largest is called Scilly, to which ships come passing between France, Normandy, Spain, Bayonne, Gascony, Scotland, Ireland, Wales and Cornwall: and, because they feel that in the event of a war breaking out between the kings of England and France, or between any of the other places mentioned, they would not have enough power to do justice to these sailors, they ask that they might exchange these islands for lands in Devon, saving the churches on the islands appropriated to them.
William le Poer, coroner of Scilly, is recorded in 1305 as being worried about the extent of wrecking in the islands, and sending a petition to the King. The names provide a wide variety of origins, e.g. Robert and Henry Sage (English), Richard de Tregenestre (Cornish), Ace de Veldre (French), Davy Gogch (possibly Welsh, or Cornish), and Adam le Fuiz Yaldicz (possibly Spanish). It is not known at what point the islanders stopped speaking the Cornish language, but the language seems to have gone into decline in Cornwall beginning in the
Late Middle Ages The Late Middle Ages or Late Medieval Period was the period of European history lasting from AD 1300 to 1500. The Late Middle Ages followed the High Middle Ages and preceded the onset of the early modern period (and in much of Europe, the Renai ...
; it was still dominant between the islands and Bodmin at the time of the Reformation, but it suffered an accelerated decline thereafter. The islands appear to have lost the old Celtic language before parts of
Penwith Penwith (; kw, Pennwydh) is an area of Cornwall, England, United Kingdom, located on the peninsula of the same name. It is also the name of a former local government district, whose council was based in Penzance. The area is named after ...
on the mainland, in contrast to the history of
Irish Irish may refer to: Common meanings * Someone or something of, from, or related to: ** Ireland, an island situated off the north-western coast of continental Europe ***Éire, Irish language name for the isle ** Northern Ireland, a constituent unit ...
or
Scottish Gaelic Scottish Gaelic ( gd, Gàidhlig ), also known as Scots Gaelic and Gaelic, is a Goidelic language (in the Celtic branch of the Indo-European language family) native to the Gaels of Scotland. As a Goidelic language, Scottish Gaelic, as well ...
. During the
English Civil War The English Civil War (1642–1651) was a series of civil wars and political machinations between Parliamentarians (" Roundheads") and Royalists led by Charles I ("Cavaliers"), mainly over the manner of England's governance and issues of re ...
, the Parliamentarians captured the isles, only to see their garrison mutiny and return the isles to the
Royalists A royalist supports a particular monarch as head of state for a particular kingdom, or of a particular dynastic claim. In the abstract, this position is royalism. It is distinct from monarchism, which advocates a monarchical system of governm ...
. By 1651 the Royalist governor, Sir John Grenville, was using the islands as a base for
privateering A privateer is a private person or ship that engages in maritime warfare under a commission of war. Since robbery under arms was a common aspect of seaborne trade, until the early 19th century all merchant ships carried arms. A sovereign or deleg ...
raids on Commonwealth and Dutch shipping. The Dutch admiral
Maarten Tromp Maarten Harpertszoon Tromp (also written as ''Maerten Tromp''; 23 April 1598 – 31 July 1653) was a Dutch army general and admiral in the Dutch navy. Son of a ship's captain, Tromp spent much of his childhood at sea, including being capture ...
sailed to the isles and on arriving on 30 May 1651 demanded compensation. In the absence of compensation or a satisfactory reply, he declared war on England in June. It was during this period that the disputed Three Hundred and Thirty Five Years' War started between the isles and the
Netherlands ) , anthem = ( en, "William of Nassau") , image_map = , map_caption = , subdivision_type = Sovereign state , subdivision_name = Kingdom of the Netherlands , established_title = Before independence , established_date = Spanish Netherl ...
. In June 1651, Admiral Robert Blake recaptured the isles for the Parliamentarians. Blake's initial attack on Old Grimsby failed, but the next attacks succeeded in taking
Tresco Tresco may refer to: * Tresco, Elizabeth Bay, a historic residence in New South Wales, Australia * Tresco, Isles of Scilly, an island off Cornwall, England, United Kingdom * Tresco, Victoria, a town in Victoria, Australia * a nickname referring to ...
and
Bryher Bryher ( kw, Breyer "place of hills") is one of the smallest inhabited islands of the Isles of Scilly, with a population of 84 in 2011, spread across . History The name of the island is recorded as ''Brayer'' in 1336 and ''Brear'' in 1500. Ge ...
. Blake placed a battery on Tresco to fire on St Mary's, but one of the guns exploded, killing its crew and injuring Blake. A second battery proved more successful. Subsequently, Grenville and Blake negotiated terms that permitted the Royalists to surrender honourably. The Parliamentary forces then set to fortifying the islands. They built
Cromwell's Castle Cromwell's Castle is an artillery fort overlooking New Grimsby harbour on the island of Tresco in the Isles of Scilly. It comprises a tall, circular gun tower and an adjacent gun platform, and was designed to prevent enemy naval vessels from e ...
—a gun platform on the west side of Tresco—using materials scavenged from an earlier gun platform further up the hill. Although this poorly sited earlier platform dated back to the 1550s, it is now referred to as
King Charles's Castle King Charles's Castle is a ruined artillery fort overlooking New Grimsby harbour on the island of Tresco in the Isles of Scilly. Built between 1548 and 1551 to protect the islands from French attack, it would have held a battery of guns and ...
. The Isles of Scilly served as a place of exile during the English Civil War. Among those exiled there was Unitarian Jon Biddle. During the night of 22 October 1707, the isles were the scene of one of the worst maritime disasters in British history, when out of a fleet of 21 Royal Navy ships headed from
Gibraltar ) , anthem = " God Save the King" , song = " Gibraltar Anthem" , image_map = Gibraltar location in Europe.svg , map_alt = Location of Gibraltar in Europe , map_caption = United Kingdom shown in pale green , mapsize = , image_map2 = Gib ...
to
Portsmouth Portsmouth ( ) is a port and city in the ceremonial county of Hampshire in southern England. The city of Portsmouth has been a unitary authority since 1 April 1997 and is administered by Portsmouth City Council. Portsmouth is the most dens ...
, six were driven onto the cliffs. Four of the ships sank or capsized, with at least 1,450 dead, including the commanding admiral Sir
Cloudesley Shovell Admiral of the Fleet Sir Cloudesley Shovell (c. November 1650 – 22 or 23 October 1707) was an English naval officer. As a junior officer he saw action at the Battle of Solebay and then at the Battle of Texel during the Third Anglo-Dutch Wa ...
. There is evidence of inundation by the tsunami caused by the
1755 Lisbon earthquake The 1755 Lisbon earthquake, also known as the Great Lisbon earthquake, impacted Portugal, the Iberian Peninsula, and Northwest Africa on the morning of Saturday, 1 November, Feast of All Saints, at around 09:40 local time. In combination with ...
.


Ancient monuments and historic buildings

Historic sites on the Isles of Scilly include: *
Bant's Carn Bant's Carn is a Bronze Age entrance grave located on a steep slope on the island of St Mary's in the Isles of Scilly, England. The tomb is one of the best examples of a Scillonian entrance grave. Below Bant's Carn, lies the remains of the Iro ...
, a
Bronze Age The Bronze Age is a historic period, lasting approximately from 3300 BC to 1200 BC, characterized by the use of bronze, the presence of writing in some areas, and other early features of urban civilization. The Bronze Age is the second prin ...
entrance grave Entrance grave is a type of Neolithic and early Bronze Age chamber tomb found primarily in Great Britain. The burial monument typically consisted of a circular mound bordered by a stone curb, erected over a rectangular burial chamber and access ...
* Halangy Down Ancient Village * Porth Hellick Down Burial Chamber * Innisidgen Lower and Upper Burial Chambers * The Old Blockhouse *
King Charles's Castle King Charles's Castle is a ruined artillery fort overlooking New Grimsby harbour on the island of Tresco in the Isles of Scilly. Built between 1548 and 1551 to protect the islands from French attack, it would have held a battery of guns and ...
* Harry's Walls, an unfinished artillery fort * Garrison Tower *
Cromwell's Castle Cromwell's Castle is an artillery fort overlooking New Grimsby harbour on the island of Tresco in the Isles of Scilly. It comprises a tall, circular gun tower and an adjacent gun platform, and was designed to prevent enemy naval vessels from e ...


Governors of Scilly

An early governor of Scilly was Thomas Godolphin, whose son Francis Godolphin (1540–1608), Francis received a lease on the Isles in 1568. They were styled ''Governors of Scilly'' and the Godolphins and their Osborne relatives held this position until 1834. In 1834 Augustus Smith (politician), Augustus John Smith acquired the lease from the Duchy for £20,000. Smith created the title ''Lord Proprietor of the Isles of Scilly'' for himself, and many of his actions were unpopular. The lease remained in his family until it expired for most of the Isles in 1920 when ownership reverted to the Duchy of Cornwall. Today, the Dorrien-Smith estate still holds the lease for the island of
Tresco Tresco may refer to: * Tresco, Elizabeth Bay, a historic residence in New South Wales, Australia * Tresco, Isles of Scilly, an island off Cornwall, England, United Kingdom * Tresco, Victoria, a town in Victoria, Australia * a nickname referring to ...
. * 1568–1608 Francis Godolphin (1540–1608), Sir Francis Godolphin (1540–1608) * 1608–1613 William Godolphin (1567–1613), Sir William Godolphin of Godolphin Estate, Godolphin (1567–1613) * 1613–1636 William Godolphin (1611–1636), William Godolphin (1611–1636) * 1636–1643 Sidney Godolphin (poet), Sidney Godolphin (1610–1643) * 1643–1646 Francis Godolphin (1605–1667), Sir Francis Godolphin of Godolphin Estate, Godolphin (1605–1647) * 1647–1648 Anthony Buller (1613–1679), Anthony Buller (Parliamentarian) * 1649–1651 John Grenville, 1st Earl of Bath, Sir John Grenville (Royalist) * 1651–1660 Joseph Hunkin (Governor of Scilly), Joseph Hunkin (Parliamentary control) * 1660–1667 Francis Godolphin (1605–1667), Sir Francis Godolphin of Godolphin Estate, Godolphin (1605–1667) (restored to office) * 1667–1700 Sidney Godolphin, 1st Earl of Godolphin, The 1st Earl of Godolphin (1645–1712) * 1700–1732 Sidney Godolphin (colonel), Sidney Godolphin (1652–1732) * 1733–1766 Francis Godolphin, 2nd Earl of Godolphin, The 2nd Earl of Godolphin (1678–1766) * 1766–1785 Francis Godolphin, 2nd Baron Godolphin, The 2nd Baron Godolphin (1706–1785) * 1785–1799 Francis Osborne, 5th Duke of Leeds, The 5th Duke of Leeds (1751–1799) * 1799–1831 George Osborne, 6th Duke of Leeds, The 6th Duke of Leeds (1775–1838) * 1834–1872 Augustus Smith (politician), Augustus Smith (1804–1872) * 1872–1918 Thomas Smith-Dorrien-Smith (1846–1918) * 1918–1920 Arthur Dorrien-Smith (1876–1955)


Geography

The Isles of Scilly form an archipelago of five inhabited islands (six if Gugh is counted separately from St Agnes) and numerous other small rocky islets (around 140 in total) lying off
Land's End Land's End ( kw, Penn an Wlas or ''Pedn an Wlas'') is a headland and tourist and holiday complex in western Cornwall, England, on the Penwith peninsula about west-south-west of Penzance at the western end of the A30 road. To the east of it is ...
. The islands' position produces a place of great contrast; the ameliorating effect of the sea, greatly influenced by the North Atlantic Current, means they rarely have frost or snow, which allows local farmers to grow flowers well ahead of those in mainland Britain. The chief agricultural product is cut flowers, mostly daffodils. Exposure to Atlantic Ocean, Atlantic winds also means that spectacular winter gales lash the islands from time to time. This is reflected in the landscape, most clearly seen on Tresco where the lush Tresco Abbey Gardens, Abbey Gardens on the sheltered southern end of the island contrast with the low calluna, heather and bare rock sculpted by the wind on the exposed northern end. Natural England has designated the Isles of Scilly as National Character Area 158. As part of a 2002 marketing campaign, the plant conservation charity Plantlife chose sea thrift (''Armeria maritima'') as the "floral emblem, county flower" of the islands. This table provides an overview of the most important islands: (1) Inhabited until 1855. In 1975 the islands were designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The designation covers the entire archipelago, including the uninhabited islands and rocks, and is the smallest such area in the UK. The islands of Annet and Samson have large terneries and the islands are well populated by pinniped, seals. The Isles of Scilly are the only British haunt of the lesser white-toothed shrew (''Crocidura suaveolens''), where it is known locally as a "''teak''" or "''teke''". The islands are famous among birdwatching, birdwatchers for the large variety of rare and migratory birds that visit the islands. The peak time of year for sightings is generally in the autumn.


Tidal influx

The tidal range at the Isles of Scilly is high for an open sea location; the maximum for St Mary's is . Additionally, the inter-island waters are mostly shallow, which at spring tides allows for dry land walking between several of the islands. Many of the northern islands can be reached from Tresco, including Bryher, Samson and St Martin's (requires very low tides). From St Martin's White Island, Little Ganilly and Great Arthur are reachable. Although the sound between St Mary's and Tresco, The Road, is fairly shallow, it never becomes totally dry, but according to some sources it should be possible to wade at extreme low tides. Around St Mary's several minor islands become accessible, including Taylor's Island on the west coast and Tolls Island on the east coast. From Saint Agnes, Gugh becomes accessible at each low tide, via a tombolo.


Climate

The Isles of Scilly have a temperate oceanic climate (Köppen climate classification: ''Cfb''), which borders a humid subtropical climate (Cf) under the Trewartha climate classification. The average annual temperature is , the warmest place in the British Isles. Winters are, by far, the warmest in the UK due to the moderating effects of the North Atlantic Current, North Atlantic Drift of the Gulf Stream. Despite being on exactly the same latitude as Winnipeg in Canada, snow and frost are extremely rare. The maximum snowfall was on 1987 United Kingdom and Ireland cold wave, 12 January 1987. Summer heat is moderated by the Atlantic Ocean and summer temperatures are not as warm as on the mainland. However, the Isles are one of the sunniest areas in the southwest with an average of seven hours per day in May. The lowest temperature ever recorded was and the highest was . The isles have never recorded a temperature below freezing in the months from May to November inclusive. Precipitation (the overwhelming majority of which is rain) averages about per year. The wettest months are from October to January, while April and May are the driest months.


Geology

All the islands of Scilly are all composed of granite rock of Cisuralian, Early Permian age, an exposed part of the Cornubian batholith. The Irish Sea Glacier terminated just to the north of the Isles of Scilly during the Last Glacial Period, last ice age.


Fauna


Government


National government

Politically, the islands are part of England, one of the four countries of the United Kingdom. They are represented in the Parliament of the United Kingdom, UK Parliament as part of the St Ives (UK Parliament constituency), St Ives constituency. As part of the United Kingdom, the islands Brexit, were part of the European Union and were represented in the European Parliament as part of the multi-member South West England (European Parliament constituency), South West England constituency.


Local government

Historically, the Isles of Scilly were administered as one of the hundreds of Cornwall, although the Cornwall quarter sessions had limited jurisdiction there. For judicial purposes, High Sheriff, shrievalty purposes, and Lord Lieutenant, lieutenancy purposes, the Isles of Scilly are "deemed to form part of the county of Cornwall". The Local Government Act 1888 allowed the Local Government Board to establish in the Isles of Scilly "councils and other local authorities separate from those of the county of Cornwall"... "for the application to the islands of any act touching local government." Accordingly, in 1890 the ''Isles of Scilly Rural District Council'' (the RDC) was formed as a ''sui generis'' Unitary Authority, unitary authority, outside the administrative county of Cornwall. Cornwall County Council provided some services to the Isles, for which the RDC made financial contributions. The Isles of Scilly Order 1930 granted the council the "powers, duties and liabilities" of a
county council A county council is the elected administrative body governing an area known as a county. This term has slightly different meanings in different countries. Ireland The county councils created under British rule in 1899 continue to exist in Irel ...
. Section 265 of the Local Government Act 1972 allowed for the continued existence of the RDC, but renamed as the ''Council of the Isles of Scilly''. This unusual status also means that much administrative law (for example relating to the functions of local authorities, the health service and other public bodies) that applies in the rest of England applies in modified form in the islands. With a total population of just over 2,000, the council represents fewer inhabitants than many English parish councils in England, parish councils, and is by far the smallest English unitary council. , 130 people are employed full-time equivalent, full-time by the council to provide local services (including water supply and air traffic control). These numbers are significant, in that almost 10% of the adult population of the islands is directly linked to the council, as an employee or a councillor. The Council consists of 16 elected councillors, 12 of whom are returned by the Wards and electoral divisions of the United Kingdom, ward of St Mary's, and one from each of four "off-island" wards (St Martin's, St Agnes, Bryher, and Tresco). The 2021 Council of the Isles of Scilly election, latest elections took place on 6 May 2021; all 15 councillors elected were Independent (politician), independents. One seat, for the island of Bryher, received no nominations and remained vacant until filled by a further independent councillor on 28 May. The council is headquartered at Town Hall, by The Parade park in Hugh Town, and also performs the administrative functions of the Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, AONB Partnership and the Inshore Fisheries and Conservation Authority. Some aspects of local government are shared with Cornwall, including Healthcare in Cornwall, health, and the Council of the Isles of Scilly together with Cornwall Council form a Local Enterprise Partnership. In July 2015 a devolution in the United Kingdom, devolution deal was announced by the Second Cameron ministry, government under which Cornwall Council and the Council of the Isles of Scilly are to create a plan to bring health and social care services together under local control. The Local Enterprise Partnership is also to be bolstered.


Flags

Two flags are used to represent Scilly, The Scillonian Cross, selected by readers of ''Scilly News'' in a 2002 vote and then registered with the Flag Institute as the flag of the islands, and the flag of the Council of the Isles of Scilly, which incorporates the council's logo and represents the council. An adapted version of the old Board of Ordnance flag has also been used, after it was left behind when munitions were removed from the isles. The "Cornish Ensign" (the Cornish cross with the Union Jack in the canton) has also been used.


Emergency services

The Isles of Scilly form part of the Devon and Cornwall Police force area. There is a police station in Hugh Town. The Cornwall Air Ambulance helicopter provides cover to the islands. The islands have their own independent fire brigade – the Isles of Scilly Fire and Rescue Service – which is staffed entirely by retained firefighters on all the inhabited islands. The emergency ambulance service is provided by the South Western Ambulance Service with full-time paramedics employed to cover the islands working with Ambulance attendant, emergency care attendants.


Education

Education is available on the islands up to age 16. There is one school, the Five Islands Academy, which provides primary schooling at sites on St Agnes, St Mary's, St Martin's and Tresco, and secondary schooling at a site on St Mary's, with secondary students from outside St Mary's living at a school boarding house (Mundesley House) during the week. Sixteen- to eighteen-year-olds are entitled to a free sixth form place at a state school or sixth form college on the mainland, and are provided with free flights and a grant towards accommodation.


Economy


Historical context

Since the mid-18th century the Scillonian economy has relied on trade with the mainland and beyond as a means of sustaining its population. Over the years the nature of this trade has varied, due to wider economic and political factors that have seen the rise and fall of industries such as kelp harvesting, harbour pilot, pilotage, smuggling, fishing, shipbuilding and, latterly floriculture, flower farming. In a 1987 study of the Scillonian economy, Neate found that many farms on the islands were struggling to remain profitable due to increasing costs and strong competition from overseas producers, with resulting diversification into tourism. Statistics suggest that agriculture on the islands now represents less than 2% of all employment.''Isles of Scilly Integrated Area Plan 2001–2004'', Isles of Scilly Partnership 2001


Tourism

Today, tourism is estimated to account for 85% of the islands' income. The islands have been successful in attracting this investment due to their special environment, favourable summer climate, relaxed culture, efficient co-ordination of tourism providers and good transport links by sea and air to the mainland, uncommon in scale to similar-sized island communities.''Isles of Scilly Local Plan: A 2020 Vision'', Council of the Isles of Scilly, 2004''Isles of Scilly 2004, imagine...'', Isles of Scilly Tourist Board, 2004 The islands' economy is highly dependent on tourism, even by the standards of other island communities. "The concentration [on] a small number of sectors is typical of most similarly sized UK island communities. However, it is the degree of concentration, which is distinctive along with the overall importance of tourism within the economy as a whole and the very limited manufacturing base that stands out". Tourism is also a highly seasonal industry owing to its reliance on outdoor recreation, and the lower number of tourists in winter results in a significant constriction of the islands' commercial activities. However, the tourist season benefits from an extended period of business in October when many birding, birdwatchers ("twitchers") arrive.


Ornithology

Because of its position, Scilly is the first landing for many migrant birds, including extreme rarities from North America and Siberia. Scilly is situated far into the Atlantic Ocean, so many American vagrant birds will make first European landfall in the archipelago. If an extremely rare bird turns up, the island will see a significant increase in numbers of birdwatchers. This type of birding, chasing after rare birds, is called "Birdwatching#Birding, birdwatching and twitching, twitching". The islands are home to ornithologist Will Wagstaff.


Employment

The predominance of tourism means that "tourism is by far the main sector throughout each of the individual islands, in terms of employment... [and] this is much greater than other remote and rural areas in the United Kingdom". Tourism accounts for approximately 63% of all employment. Businesses dependent on tourism, with the exception of a few hotels, tend to be small enterprises typically employing fewer than four people; many of these are family run, suggesting an entrepreneurial culture among the local population. However, much of the work generated by this, with the exception of management, is low skilled and thus poorly paid, especially for those involved in cleaning, catering and retail. Because of the seasonality of tourism, many jobs on the islands are seasonal and part-time, so work cannot be guaranteed throughout the year. Some islanders take up other temporary jobs 'out of season' to compensate for this. Due to a lack of local casual labour at peak holiday times, many of the larger employers accommodate guest workers.


Taxation

The islands were not subject to Income Tax, income tax until 1954, and there was no motor vehicle excise duty levied until 1971. The Council Tax is set by the Local Authority in order to meet their budget requirements. The Valuation Office Agency values properties for the purpose of Council Tax, council tax. The amount of council tax you have to pay depends on the band of your property as shown on the graph below. The Valuation (finance), valuation is based on what the property would have been worth in 1991. Source 1
Council of the Isles of Scilly
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Isles of Scilly Council Tax
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Transport

St Mary's is the only island with a significant road network and the only island with classified roads - the A3110, A3111 and A3112. St Agnes and St Martin's also have public highways adopted by the local authority. In 2005 there were 619 registered vehicles on the island. The island also has taxicab, taxis and a tour bus. Vehicles on the islands are exempt from annual MOT tests. Fixed-wing aircraft services, operated by Isles of Scilly Skybus, operate from Land's End Airport, Land's End, Newquay Cornwall Airport, Newquay and Exeter International Airport, Exeter to St Mary's Airport. A scheduled helicopter service has operated from a new Penzance Heliport to both St Mary's Airport, Isles of Scilly, St Mary's Airport and Tresco Heliport since 2020. The helicopter is the only direct flight to the island of
Tresco Tresco may refer to: * Tresco, Elizabeth Bay, a historic residence in New South Wales, Australia * Tresco, Isles of Scilly, an island off Cornwall, England, United Kingdom * Tresco, Victoria, a town in Victoria, Australia * a nickname referring to ...
. By sea, the Isles of Scilly Steamship Company provides a passenger and cargo service from Penzance to St Mary's, which is currently operated by the ''Scillonian III'' passenger ferry, supported until summer 2017 by the ''Gry Maritha'' cargo vessel and now by the ''Mali Rose''. The other islands are linked to St. Mary's by a network of inter-island launch (boat), launches. St Mary's Harbour is the principal harbour of the Isles of Scilly, and is located in Hugh Town.


Tenure

A majority of the freehold land of the islands is the property of the Duchy of Cornwall, with a few exceptions, including much of Hugh Town on St Mary's, which was sold to the inhabitants in 1949. The duchy also holds as duchy property, part of the duchy's landholding. All the uninhabited islands, islets and rocks and much of the untenanted land on the inhabited islands is managed by the Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust, which leases these lands from the Duchy for the rent of one daffodil per year. Limited housing availability is a contentious yet critical issue for the Isles of Scilly, especially as it affects the feasibility of residency on the islands. Few properties are privately owned, with many units being let by the Duchy of Cornwall, the council and a few by housing associations. The management of these subsequently affects the possibility of residency on the islands.Martin D, 'Heaven and Hell', in ''Inside Housing'', 31 October 2004 Housing demand outstrips supply, a problem compounded by restrictions on further development designed to protect the islands' unique environment and prevent the infrastructural carrying capacity from being exceeded. This has pushed up the prices of the few private properties that become available and, significantly for the majority of the islands' populations, it has also affected the rental sector where rates have likewise drastically increased.''Sub Regional Housing Markets in the South West'', South West Housing Board, 2004S. Fleming et al., ''"In from the cold" A report on Cornwall’s Affordable Housing Crisis'', Liberal Democrats, Penzance, 2003 High housing costs pose significant problems for the local population, especially as local incomes (in Cornwall) are only 70% of the national average, whilst house prices are almost £5,000 higher than the national average. This in turn affects the retention of 'key workers' and the younger generation, which consequently affects the viability of schools and other essential community services. The limited access to housing provokes strong local politics. It is often assumed that tourism is to blame for this, attracting newcomers to the area who can afford to outbid locals for available housing. Many buildings are used for tourist accommodation which reduces the number available for local residents. Second homes are also thought to account for a significant proportion of the housing stock, leaving many buildings empty for much of the year.''The Cornishman'', "Islanders in dispute with Duchy over housing policy", 19 August 2004 In December 2021, the Council bought a property to ease the housing crisis, which would be converted into 3 affordable homes. The Council also, in January 2022, declared a housing crisis, due to the housing crisis placing the islands in "real danger of putting essential services at risk, such as the hospital and school". The council also highlighted that 15 households would be homeless by March and would face having to move from the Islands.


Culture


People

According to the 2001 UK census, 97% of the population of the islands are white British, with nearly 93% of the inhabitants born in the islands, in mainland Cornwall or elsewhere in England. Since EU enlargement in 2004, a number of A8 countries, central Europeans have moved to the island, joining the Australians, New Zealanders and South Africans who traditionally made up most of the islands' overseas workers. In 2005, their numbers were estimated at nearly 100 out of a total population of just over 2,000. The Isles have also been referred to as "the land that crime forgot", reflecting lower crime levels than national averages.


Sport

One continuing legacy of the isles' past is Cornish pilot gig, gig racing, wherein fast rowing boats ("gigs") with crews of six (or in one case, seven) race between the main islands. Gig racing has been said to derive from the race to collect marine salvage, salvage from shipwrecks on the rocks around Scilly, but the race was actually to deliver a harbour pilot, pilot onto incoming vessels, to guide them through the hazardous reefs and shallows. (The boats are correctly termed "pilot gigs"). The World Pilot Gig Championships are held annually over the May Day bank holiday weekend. The event originally involved crews from the Islands and a few crews from mainland Cornwall, but in the intervening years the number of gigs attending has increased, with crews coming from all over the South-West and further afield. The Isles of Scilly is home to what is reportedly the smallest association football, football league in the world, the Isles of Scilly Football League. In December 2006, Sport England published a survey which revealed that residents of the Isles of Scilly were the most active in England in sports and other fitness activities. 32% of the population participate at least three times a week for 30 minutes or more. There is a golf club with a nine-hole course (each with two tees) situated on the island of St Mary's, near Porthloo and Telegraph, Isles of Scilly, Telegraph, which was founded in 1904.


Media

The islands are served by the Halangy Down radio and television transmitter on St Mary's north of Telegraph at . It is a relay of the main transmitter at Redruth (Cornwall) and broadcasts BBC Radio BBC Radio 1, 1, BBC Radio 2, 2, BBC Radio 3, 3, BBC Radio 4, 4 and BBC Radio Cornwall and the range of Freeview (UK), Freeview television and BBC radio channels known as 'Freeview Light'. Radio Scilly, a community radio station, was launched in September 2007. In January 2020, Radio Scilly was rebranded as Islands FM. The Isles of Scilly were featured on the TV programme ''Seven Natural Wonders'' as one of the wonders of South West England. Since 2007 the islands have featured in the BBC series ''An Island Parish'', following various real-life stories and featuring in particular the newly appointed ''Chaplain to the Isles of Scilly''. A 12-part series was filmed in 2007 and first broadcast on BBC2 in January 2008. After Reverend David Easton left the islands in 2009, the series continued under the same name but focused elsewhere.


Notable people

* Saint Lide, a bishop who lived on the island of St Helen's in the Isles of Scilly. * John Godolphin (1617 in Scilly – 1678), an English jurist and writer, an admiralty judge under the Commonwealth. * Augustus Smith (politician), Augustus John Smith (1804 in London – 1872 in Plymouth), Lord Proprietor of the Isles of Scilly for over thirty years. In 1834 he acquired the lease on the Isles of Scilly from the Duchy of Cornwall for £20,000. Liberal MP for Truro 1857–1865. * Sir Frederick Hervey-Bathurst, 3rd Baronet (1807 in Scilly – 1881 in Wiltshire), a famous English cricketer. * John Edmund Sharrock Moore ARCS (1870 in Rossendale – 1947 in Penzance), an English biologist, lead two expeditions to Tanganyika. During the 1920s he moved to Tresco. * David Hunt (ornithologist), David Hunt (1934 in Devonport – 1985 in India), an English ornithologist and horticulturalist in Tresco and at the Island Hotel where he became the gardener in 1964. He was killed by a tiger in India. * Stella Turk MBE (1925 Scilly – 2017 in Camborne), a British zoologist, naturalist, and conservationist. Worked on marine biology and conservation, particularly on marine molluscs and mammals. * Sam Llewellyn (born 1948 in Tresco),Biography of Llewellyn
retrieved 12 October 2017
a British author of literature for children and adults. * Stephen Richard Menheniott (1957–1976), an 18-year-old English man with learning difficulties who was murdered by his father on the Isles of Scilly in 1976. * Neville Wakefield (born 1963), an art curator. * Malcolm Bell (cricketer), Malcolm Bell (born 1969 in Hugh Town), a former English cricketer. Bell was a right-handed batsman who bowled right-arm medium pace.


See also

* List of shipwrecks of the Isles of Scilly * List of extreme points of the United Kingdom * Three Hundred and Thirty Five Years' War


References


Further reading

* * * ''Isles of Scilly Guidebook'' by Friendly Guides (2021) *''A Study of the Historic Coastal and Marine Environment of the Isles of Scilly''. Cornwall Archaeological Unit, Cornwall Council, ed. by D. Charman et al. (Truro: Cornwall Archaeological Unit, Cornwall Council, 2015)


External links


Council of the Isles of Scilly

Isles of Scilly Tourist Information Centre Website

Isles of Scilly Guidebook and detailed maps of Scilly

Isles of Scilly Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty Website
*
Cornwall Record Office Online Catalogue for Scilly
*
Images of the Isles of Scilly
at the Historic England Archive
Geology of the Isles of Scilly
{{DEFAULTSORT:Scilly, Isles of Isles of Scilly, Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty in England Birdwatching sites in England Celtic Sea Dark-sky preserves in the United Kingdom Duchy of Cornwall Hundreds of Cornwall, Isles of Scilly Local government districts in Cornwall, Isles of Scilly Natural regions of England Nature Conservation Review sites NUTS 2 statistical regions of the European Union, Isles of Scilly Ramsar sites in England Special Protection Areas in England